Frequently asked questions
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What is the dyno tuning process?
Once a vehicle is strapped in on our dyno the first thing our tuner does is mount extra sensors to capture extra accurate data from the vehicle. From there we perform a couple of base runs to see how the vehicle is behaving and then our tuner starts modifying the tune, each tune revision and change is dyno tested to verify that everything is running correctly and as intended. This process can make many hours or in some instances with very heavily modified vehicles a couple daysÂ
Is this safe for my engine?
This is a bit of a loaded question so we’ll answer this in two part. The short answer is yes. To elaborate, it’s a bit of a grey area with the main factor being the tuner. Because each tuner is making each tune file it comes down to the knowledge and experience of each tuner. While general tuning knowledge is a important factor when it comes to developing tunes another main factor is knowledge on individual engines. Each engine has it’s own quirks and if unknown can lead to catastrophic damage. A good example of this is Rangers and their factory turbos, we’ve had a few rangers come to us after being tuned or worse, flash tuned by another workshop where they work the turbo too much. Depending on the engine and setup, it has the capability to make loads of power but there will be mechanical limits that it will reach first. That’s where the experience and specific engine knowledge comes into play
Why should I consider a tune?
If you’re looking to gain more power/torque or even better fuel economy a tune is highly recommended! Even on stock cars we’re able to make around 20-30% more power and torque at the wheels than how the vehicle came in.
If you have changed the turbo/injectors/engine internals on a vehicle then it is strongly recommended you get it tuned before damage occurs. When changing components like that you are drastically changing the engines characteristics that the factory tune is not suited for. For smaller mods such as exhausts/intakes it’s not life or death if you don’t get it tuned but a tune will help optimise your engine to it’s full potential. (Please note, if your car has a MAF and you change the intake. Please get it tuned to correct the MAF scaling and air/fuel ratio. Changing the MAF location drastically changes how the computer reads airflow and that will need to be tuned)Â
Chip tuning/Flash tuning vs Custom dyno tuning
The main difference between chip tuning/flash tuning and custom dyno tuning is that if you don’t have the exact mods that the flash tune was made with your car will run sub optimally. Worse yet, if a shop flashes a car and does not verify the tune on the dyno there is no hard evidence that the tune is spot on across the whole rev range.
We pride ourselves on custom dyno tuning and for good reason, we’ve had cars come in with flash tunes that run too rich (diesel) and as a result have destroyed engines. We’ve had other cars come in with weird power dips or cars that just have a lot of room still left in them.
Chip tuning is a general term put on older cars where you can not access the ECU directly and therefore need to install a chip on the ECU to write to it. Again, there are people that install non-rewritable chips and send the car away and others that have the tools and specific chips to make changes to the tune. This is how we’re able to tune ZD30DI Patrols for example. The ECU is socketed for a re-writable chip and we have the necessary tools to make changes to the tune inside the chip. This comes back around to Flash vs Custom dyno tuning
Piggyback vs Factory ECU tuning
The main differences between a piggyback such as a Unichip or Alphatech and tuning the factory ECU lies in how they operate, with a piggyback you’re essentially tricking the factory ECU to output more fuel/timing etc, you’re not actually controlling the main ECU as intended. When we’re able to tune factory ECUs it knows exactly how the engines is behaving and we alter the map to command more fuel/timing/boost etc, the ECU then knows what is actually going on and can continue to monitor normal safety parameters and what it is outputting. This is usually preferred and less complex to a point as there isn’t a need for additional wiring to be involved which results in lower cost!
So does that mean piggyback ECUs don’t have a place?
Nope! They are still used on certain vehicles where we’re unable to access the factory ECU, in some other applications where you would want multiple maps for towing and 4WD for example we’re unable to achieve that with the factory ECU. Some customer may also want hard limiters on their vehicles which again, we’re unable to do so with most factory ECUs. In the end, tuning the factory ECU will suit 99% of customers and be cheaper than a piggyback however in some instances a piggyback is the way forward  Â
Will this void my warranty?
A bit of a heated topic where you will get different answers depending on who you ask. The short answer is no, a tune or quality performance part will not void warranty unless it has caused an issue
To elaborate, certain manufactures will try to void your warranty if you mention your car has been tuned however, the Australian Automotive Aftermarket Association (AAAA) states “Car manufacturers are required to fix manufacturing faults on a vehicle during the warranty period, and the fitment of quality accessories and vehicle upgrades does not affect this obligation unless the modification caused the fault” Â
How does a tune affect service intervals?
Tuning a vehicle does not affect the service intervals at all. Simply follow the service intervals recommended by the manufacture to maintain a healthy engine
Can you return my car to stock?
We store every customers stock ECU file and our tune file so that in any event where you need to return the car to it’s factory settings we are able to do so. When you need the tuned file to be put back into your car simply call and book in
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